Putting green installation requires physical exertion and the greens weigh up to 250 lbs. If you are not in good physical condition, do not attempt to install our greens. Please check with your physician before attempting to install this product.

Tools Needed: Hand Tamper, String Trimmer, Safety Glasses, 2' x 4', 3 foot level, yard rake with flat metal side, round nose shovel, leaf rake, square nose shovel and hand trowel.

Follow the step-by-step instructions below to prepare the location and install your new putting green. Happy putting!

Hand tamper, string trimmer, safety glasses, 2x4, 3 foot level, yard rake with flat metal side, round nose shovel, leaf rake, square nose shovel and hand trowel	(1) Select a level site or create one. Greens should not be placed in a depression or drain way. (See leveling diagrams A).
(2) Roll out green and check grade. Grade should not exceed a 2” rise over a 10’ run	3) Outline edge of green with weed eater, or edger (always wear eye protection).
(4) Roll up green	5) Weed eat grass inside the outline down to the dirt or roots (always wear eye protection).
6) Rake or blow cuttings from outlined area, and cut ridges or roots if necessary. Fill any indentations	7) Add up to 2 lbs. of base for every square foot of green. #8 crusher rock mixed evenly with sand (1 to 1) is recommended for base
8) Create a gentle crown in the center for drainage with a leveling rake or 2x4 and rake the area smooth. No indentations should be present.	9) Compact the base with a hand tamper. A base of #8 crusher rock mixed with paver sand is used because it is resilient and holds it’s shape better than pure sand.
10) Check the base for levels and smoothness	13) OPTIONAL: Additional paver sand can be added for smoothness or to create gentle contours in the green. Smooth with edge of level to final desired contour.
(12) Roll out green and check smoothness and contours	(13) Dig in cups with hand trowel or 4 ¼” hole cutter. OPTIONAL: If drainage may be an issue, dig 2-4 inches deeper than the length of the cup and add gravel. Top of the cup should be 1/8” below surface of the green.
(14) If soil is too hard to dig in cups with a hand hand trowel (roots or rocks), mark hole and roll up green at hole. Then, chop up area by hole with a pick or round nosed shovel. Compact area flat and dig in hole.	(15) After the cup is set in the ground, roll up green at hole and compact soil around the cup with the level.
(16) Roll out green and inspect contours and level cups. Cups can be leveled by stepping gently on their edges.	(17) Clean and add markers or flags (optional). Surface can be raked (leaf or carpet rake), blown, vacuumed with a beater bar or hosed off or gently pressure washed.
(18) To change the contours of the green over time, add a bag or two of paver sand to keep the green challenging and fun for years to come.

LEVELING A SLOPED AREA FOR PUTTING GREEN INSTALLATION

DO-IT-YOURSELF YARD GRASS AND
BORDER INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS   

Do-It-Yourself Installation for Yard Grass and Border Material  

I.                   Sub-Base

A.    Remove existing sod and soil to desired grade. (optional)

B.     Add sub-base (1-2” of ½” or 3/8” stone gravel, marble chips or its equivalent) to promote drainage and provide a smooth base.  Grass will be as smooth as the base for small jobs in dry regions.  For wetter climates and softer soils or large jobs, a sub-base of up to 6” of road gravel topped with ½” rock chips or gravel may be the best practice.

C.     Compacting the aggregate is recommended.  Use a hand tamper for small areas and a vibrating plate or roller for large.

    II           Setting the grass (see Seaming IV if necessary)

A.    Stake or nail the grass edges every 18” in the drain holes with grass spikes or large 6” nails.  In high wind areas, more staking may be necessary.

B.     Rake (soft rake) or brush the fibers against the grain to stand the fibers up.

    III.         Cutting

A.  Grass turf has a grain because of the manufacturing process and the fact that it is kept on a roll. MAKE SURE ALL THE GRAINS MATCH BEFORE CUTTING (go in the same direction).  A drawing to match the grains is recommended.

B.   Grass can be cut with many cutting tools: razor knife, carpet knife, etc; however, THE GRASS BACKING HAS VARYING THICKNESSES.  USE EXTREME CAUTION AND DO NOT PULL THE CUTTING TOOL TOWARD THE NON-TOOL HAND OR YOUR BODY.  SEVERE LACERATION MAY OCCUR.

1.      Grass edges may be trimmed or contoured with sheers or scissors especially when seaming border grass to the lower pile height putting turf.

     IV.        Seaming

A.    Lay the cut grass pieces out and place the seams together as desired (match grains). There are many ways to seam grass.  For the beginner, we recommend a 6” – 12” wide seam tape.  This can be ordered through StarPro.  The glue must be a polyurethane base glue or adhesive (3M Rubber and Gasket Adhesive is the most popular or Heavy Duty Liquid Nails for smaller seams).  Place the tape on the seam line half-way under one side of the grass, lift up edge of grass and apply glue to ½ of the seam tape with an even thin coat. Press the grass to the seam tape.  You may want to weigh down the seam with bricks.  Allow to dry to a point where it is firm and then glue the seam tape and other side of grass together.  Remember to stand on the side of the tape you are not gluing or it may cause bunching on the tape. Keep the grass fibers out of the seam, and don’t use so much glue that it gets on the grass.  If you are experienced, you can do both sides at once. Remember, you are gluing the grass to the seam tape and not the two pieces of grass together. Allow seam glue to dry thoroughly.

      V.        Infill

A.  Infill is not necessary for small jobs but is highly recommended.  It improves the look, weight, feel, drainage, life expectancy, and makes the blades stand up straight.

                  B.  The most popular infills are play sand and granular tire particles.

C.  When the seam glue is dry, disperse infill as desired up to ¾ of an inch (1 to 2.5 lbs of sand per    square foot of grass is recommended).  Broadcast the infill evenly across the grass and rake the grass against the grain to stand the blades upright. Infilling may shrink the grass, so trim the edges last.

      VI.                 Drainage

A.  Our lawn grass drains at an amazing 25 inches per hour.                       

Notice: Local or neighborhood codes, covenants, restrictions or specifications may apply to the installation of synthetic lawns.

home | greens & accessories | outdoor installation | retailer/contractors | indoor instructions & FAQs | ordering options | on-line store | contact us